Llanfair ym Muallt

The big bronze bull at the entrance to Builth Wells’ car park serves as the perfect ambassador for the town. It’s a life-sized statue of the famous Welsh Black breed, weighing a hefty 1½ tons, by local sculptor Gavin Fifield. As a symbol of a town that’s robustly rural and a touch creative at the same time, it’s just about perfect.

Despite a relatively brief flirtation with spa tourism in the 19th century, Builth remains a town rooted in all things agricultural. It’s surrounded by farming country, holds a livestock market and – most significantly of all – is home to the Royal Welsh Agricultural Society and its huge showground where one of Europe’s most important countryside gatherings takes place each summer.

Home on the range

Land Rovers and Range Rovers are thick on the ground in these parts. But, unlike their immaculate city counterparts, they’re usually plastered in mud as they trundle through the busy High Street. They are working vehicles travelling through a working town.

That’s not to say that Builth doesn’t have its showy side. The long High Street is lined with a wide-ranging choice of shops and cafés catering for all tastes. You’ll find places selling gourmet food and fishing tackle, zero-waste organic produce and newspapers, hippie-infused fashions and bedroom furniture, pet supplies and art and craft. It’s an easy-going, unpretentious mix that reflects Builth’s personality as a practical but personable country town.

In the beginning

To trace Builth’s beginnings take a side lane off High Street and follow the narrow path upwards to the remains of Builth Castle. It’s not much visited, but well worth seeking out. Dating from Norman times to control a strategic crossing point across the River Wye, the original timber castle was rebuilt in stone in the late 13th century.

The stonework has now disappeared, possibly taken to rebuild the town after the Great Fire of Builth in 1690. Nevertheless, what’s left – a steep mound ringed by a deep ditch – is most impressive, as are the far-ranging views across the rooftops to the Royal Welsh Showground and mountains beyond.

Beside the river

Down at ground level, next to the bridge there’s Wyeside, an arts centre for film and live performances. Escape from busy Builth – it’s at the crossroads of a number of major routes through Wales – is easy. Cross the road from Wyeside Arts Centre and head for the aforementioned big bull at the entrance to a large swathe of parkland known as the Groe.

The statue stands at the start of a tranquil riverside walk on a tree-lined avenue that takes you westwards to the Wye’s confluence with the River Irfon. It’s also the best place from which to view Builth’s handsome six-arched bridge.

Back in town, the High Street starts – quite literally on a high – with a skyscraping mural that fills the side of Cribs Clothing depicting the fate of Llywelyn ap Gruffydd, the last native prince of Wales. Further along the street there’s the little Heritage Centre packed with old photographs and local information, run by enthusiastic volunteers. Further along, the street leads to Market Street and St Mary’s Church.