Tucked in beneath the rugged, stony outcrop that’s home to the town’s medieval castle (more on that later), Montgomery has a grandeur that outstrips its comparatively small size, a reflection of its former status as the county town of Montgomeryshire. The central (and aptly named) Broad Street makes a striking first impression – a wide, elegant thoroughfare lined with handsome Georgian townhouses and bookended by the red brick Town Hall, built in 1738.

 

Alongside buildings from this period, you’ll also find Victorian architecture and half-timbered houses from Montgomery’s earlier history. As you explore, keep your eyes peeled for the grey plaques attached to walls and buildings, each one revealing historical titbits from the town’s long and storied past.

 

Market forces

Despite its justifiable pride in its heritage, Montgomery remains very much a going concern. The weekly Thursday market (another historic asset, held since the town was granted a charter in 1227) attracts tradespeople and shoppers from across the area, while many of the town’s ancient buildings are now home to businesses selling everything from books to bouquets of flowers.

 

There’s also a lively cultural calendar featuring events like the Monty Lit Fest, which sees writers from Wales and beyond descend on the town for a series of talks and workshops, and open-air performances of Shakespeare in the grounds of the castle.

 

What’s in store?

Montgomery’s streets are packed with shops, cafés, restaurants and delis, but perhaps its most celebrated store is Bunners on Arthur Street. Though it bills itself as an ironmongers, the term doesn’t really do justice to this Aladdin’s cave of a shop.

 

Still run by the same family that established it in 1892, it’s a higgledy-piggledy treasure trove with a dizzying array of products on sale. Whether you’re in the market for a quad bike, ride-on lawnmower, wood-burning stove or range cooker, or you just need to pick up crockery, kitchenware or seed potatoes for the garden, Bunners has you covered. You can even fill up with petrol or diesel from the authentically retro pumps flanking the shopfront.

 

Vantage point

The dramatic ruins of 13th-century Montgomery Castle sit on rocky crag above town – a strategic spot selected by Henry III’s adviser Hubert de Burgh. You don’t need to be a military genius to see why this was the perfect location for a castle. Surrounded on three sides by a naturally impregnable landscape of rugged cliffs and valleys, with views extending for miles in every direction, it’s little wonder that it endured repeated attacks from Welsh forces throughout the 13th century.

 

In fact, it managed to hold its ground until 1649, when it was eventually destroyed by Parliamentarians during the Civil War. It’s reached via a narrow lane the locals call the Conduit – originally designed as a last-ditch escape route from town to the safety of the castle.

 

People’s history

Located inside a former inn dating from the 16th century, The Old Bell Museum is a fascinating repository of local history. Run by a team of volunteers from the Montgomery Civic Society, it’s a well-loved community resource that links the town’s past and present.

 

Head inside and you’ll find items collected from Montgomery homes and businesses spanning centuries of local life, including antique maps, blacksmiths’ tools, photographs and artefacts discovered during the excavation of Montgomery Castle. There’s also a recreation of Hen Domen, Montgomery’s first castle. Built just north of the present-day town, this timber fortress, constructed in the 11th century, is one of the most extensively excavated castles of its period in the UK.

 

Rolling back the years

Largely dating from the 13th century, St Nicholas Church on Church Bank is also home to a time-travelling selection of features from different periods in its history.

 

The church tower was built in the 19th century, while the ornate canopied tomb of local lord (and holder of Montgomery Castle) Richard Herbert was crafted in the 16th century. The double chancel screen has its origins in the 15th century, while the beautifully carved wooden rood screen dates all the way back to the church’s origins in the 13th century.