Past and present rest easily next to each other in Welshpool. Broad Street, the town’s handsome main thoroughfare, is lined with historic buildings ranging from half-timbered Tudor and Jacobean houses to elegant red-brick terraces from the Georgian and Victorian eras. These striking examples of antique architecture now house shops and places to eat – everything from big-name brands to local one-of-a-kind independents.

 

There are plenty of Welshpool one-offs to watch out for. Sitting at the crossroads on what was once a busy coaching route is the Royal Oak, an inn that has been welcoming weary travellers since the 1600s. There’s also the Cockpit, the last of its kind to be found anywhere in Wales. Built in the 18th century, this unusual hexagonal building was a venue for cockfighting – a popular activity in less enlightened times – but is now the headquarters of the Women’s Institute.

 

Transporting you back to the past

Welshpool’s significance as a trading town is reflected in its transport links. Alongside a modern-day train station, it’s also at one end of the Welshpool and Llanfair Light Railway, a narrow-gauge service that makes its picturesque way west to Llanfair Caereinion.

 

The town also sits on the Montgomery Canal, once an aquatic highway carrying cargoes of limestone, coal and agricultural goods, now a peaceful highway for pleasure boats and waterside walks.

 

Take a dive into Welshpool’s past at Powysland Museum. Housed in a former warehouse overlooking the Montgomery Canal, it’s a treasure trove of local history. Don’t be fooled by its comparatively small size – every inch of the museum is packed with things to see.

 

You’ll discover exhibitions covering the regional train industry, a recreated Victorian household and displays of clothes made by Laura Ashley, the world-famous Montgomeryshire-based fashion designer. You can peer even further into the reaches of time too, thanks to an impressive collection of archaeological finds dating back to the prehistoric era.

 

All aboard

There’s excellent shopping throughout Welshpool, but one of the most popular stops is the Old Station. As the name suggests, this super-sized store is located in the town’s Grade II listed former railway station, an elaborate 19th-century building with an unusual French château-inspired design.

 

As you explore a generous selection of departments selling clothing, gifts and accessories from brands like Edinburgh Woollen Mill, Harris Tweed, James Pringle and Regatta, watch out for old platform signs, antique railway equipment and plenty of other reminders of the Old Station’s previous life. And if you need a break from browsing, pop into the café on the first floor to grab a tea, coffee, cakes and home-cooked meals.

 

King of the castles

Located a short distance from the centre of town within reasonable walking distance, Powis Castle is a must-visit if you’re spending any time in Welshpool. Look for the gate at the southern end of Berriew Street car park for a lovely stroll (roughly 2 miles/3.2km there-and-back) through green parkland to reach the castle.

 

This front-ranking National Trust property, a grand mansion that began life as a rough-and-ready medieval stronghold, is a marvel both inside and out. Head indoors to see the opulent interiors, packed with art and historical artefacts gathered by the families who have lived here over the centuries.

 

Step outside and you are surrounded by stunning gardens, a multi-layered (and multicoloured) paradise of Italian-inspired terraces, Georgian flower gardens and wild woodland. Special mention must go to the gargantuan yew hedges – over 300 years old and 46ft/14m high, these green giants are a breathtaking sight. Tending to these hedges is a Herculean challenge. The National Trust likens it to ‘extreme gardening. Trimming the high topiary is a huge task. It takes one gardener about 10 weeks on a hydraulic cherry-picker to get it all done.’

 

On track

Once a vital source of transportation for people and goods from the rural communities to the west of Welshpool, the Llanfair and Welshpool Light Railway now runs purely for pleasure. With a collection of heritage engines from the UK, Austria, Germany and even Sierra Leone, it’s a delight for anyone who owned a train set as a child (or adult).

 

You don’t need to be a rail enthusiast to enjoy a ride. The two-hour round trip across rolling countryside and through the Banwy Valley to Llanfair Caereinion is the perfect way to soak up Mid Wales’s lush, lovely border country. You can even enjoy some food on the move, with special services serving up breakfast, afternoon tea and fish and chips.